It’s midnight in Luang Prabang and it’s raining in the bathroom. Raining outside too. This is what we notice first — thunderclaps & flashing lights. No more sleep. Then we see the bathroom. Not a small leak, more like full on only enter the room in a poncho. Everything is soaked. We go downstairs, but no one is there. But the front door is open and the master key is on the desk. We think maybe the clerk is taking a break, but 30 minute later he’s not back. The town’s 11:30 pm curfew and driving rain mean no chance of finding another hotel, so it’s Ambien & back to sleep — the poor man’s Netflix & chill.

In the morning we flee to another hotel. Now we’re paying $90 a night instead of our budgeted $30, but we no longer care. We eat delicious croissants for breakfast and lie like seals in our air-conditioned bed. It’s a hard day though. We try to see some temples and while it’s beautiful, it’s too hot to really enjoy. Disappointment sets in – I want to be tougher, to endure the heat. Aren’t I supposed to be having fun? Where is the life-changing wisdom? In my post-malarone sleep I dream of no longer being here. But then I wake up and hope for a better day.