Geck-o, geck-o, the parrot like voice screams. Or f**k you, f**k you, if you haven’t yet learned that the creature claling out each night at 4am is, in fact, a gecko. We’re in a hut in Chiang Dao, backwater of Northern Thailand. Even lonely planet says there’s nothing to do here. Well, nothing but the “famous” Chiang Dao caves.

Our first night though we’re in awe of the beauty of the place. Hundreds of butterflies skip around the property, where our hut is really more of a wood cabin at the Chiang Dao Nest that calls to mind California eco-resorts. We sip thai ice teas and coffees and white wine and watch the sun go down & the fireflies come out. I haven’t seen fireflies since I was a child and Jane has almost never seen them.